Oriental Bicolour Judges Oriental Bicolour Merit Awards Oriental Bicolour IC Awards IC Show results for Bicolours Oriental Bicolour Photos Oriental Bicolour Breed Numbers Breeding and Registration Policy Oriental Bicolour Standard of Points

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General Type Standard
The Oriental Bicolour should be a beautifully balanced animal with head and
ears carried on a slender neck and with a long svelte body supported on fine
legs and feet, with a slender, whipped tail, free from abnormalities. The
body, legs, feet, head and tail should all be in proportion, giving a well
balanced appearance. The expression should be alert and intelligent. The cat
should be in excellent physical condition.
Head & Neck: Head long and well proportioned with width between
the ears, narrowing in perfectly straight lines to a fine muzzle and forming
a balanced triangle with no break or pinch at the whiskers. The head and
profile should be wedge shaped, neither round nor pointed, avoiding
exaggerated type. In profile the nose should be straight, free from any stop
or dip, and the chin should be strong with a level bite. The tip of the chin
should line up with the tip of the nose in the same vertical plane. The neck
should be long and slender.
Ears : Large, pricked and wide at the base, without exaggeration,
with their setting continuing the lines of the wedge.
Eyes : Oriental in shape and slanting towards the nose with good
width between. No tendency to squint. They should not be deep-set. The haw
should not cover more than the corner of the eye.
Eye Colour : In full coloured Bicolours the eyes may be green, blue,
or one green and one blue, with no flecks of contrasting colour. The green
should be as clear, bright and vivid as possible; an amber cast to the green
is not acceptable in any colour. The blue should be a definite clear,
bright, vivid blue, the deeper the better, neither dull nor grey. In pointed
Bicolours both eyes must be blue, the deeper the better, neither dull nor
grey. Note: Where the white patching covers one or both eyes, the intensity
of the eye colour may be slightly reduced, although the colour should be
clearly defined.
Body : Medium in size. Long and svelte with a tight abdomen, firm and
well muscled throughout.
Legs & Paws: Legs long and slim. Hind legs higher than the front legs.
Legs to be firm and well muscled. Paws small and oval. TAIL: Long and
tapering. Not blunt ended and free from any abnormality of the bone
structure.
COAT: Shorthaired: Very short and fine in texture. Glossy and close
lying and free from any flakes of dead skin.
COAT: Longhaired: Medium long, fine and silky in texture without a
woolly undercoat; glossy with no knots. A long coat should not be penalised
provided that it is fine and silky. The tail should be plume-like. The ears
may be tufted. The coat should lie flat along the body with the exception of
the areas around the chin, neck, underside and tail, where there may be a
tendency to frill, thereby disguising the underlying bone structure. By
smoothing back the coat it is possible to study the lines of the body. The
longer portions of the coat may show a tendency to wave. Longhaired
Bicolours do not normally achieve full coat until they are mature and
allowance should be made for shorter coats in kittens.
White Markings: Any distribution from a minimum of one third white up
to and including ‘van’ pattern with colour showing only on the head and
tail; it is essential that there is white on the face, on all four feet/legs
and along the underside of the cat from chest to lower abdomen. If the white
on the underside forms spots there must be a clear link from one spot to
another. The amount of white on the tail is immaterial. Cats displaying less
than one third of white to colour, or with unlinked chest and/or belly
spots, must be disqualified.
In the pointed varieties, the white patching may not be particularly obvious
in young kittens. It is also important to understand that the white patches
may distort the shade of colour on the points and that in cats showing a
high proportion of white the points may be completely obscured. Body shading
on pointed cats may appear more exaggerated next to the white patches and
should not be penalised.
Scale of Points;
| Type (50) |
|
| |
Points awarded per
section |
| Head and Neck |
15 |
| Ears |
5 |
| Eye Shape and Setting |
5 |
| Body |
15 |
| Legs and Paws |
5 |
| Tail |
5 |
| Coat and Colour (50) |
|
| Eye Colour |
10 |
| Coat Colour and Pattern |
15 |
| White Markings |
15 |
| Coat Length, Texture and
Condition |
10 |
| TOTAL |
100 |
WITHHOLDING POINTS
Withhold all awards for:
| 1. Visible Kink |
| 2. Less than one third white to body
colour |
| 3. Unlinked white spots on chest
and/or belly |
| 4. Amber cast to eye colour |
Withhold Certificates or First Prizes in Kitten Open Classes for:
| 1.Weak chin and/or uneven bite |
| 2.Any abnormality of the bone
structure of the tail |
| 3.Incorrect eye colour or any fleck
of a different colour in the eye |
| 4.Coat long, open or coarse in
texture in Shorthaired Bicolours |
| 5.Coat wooly or coarse in texture in
Longhaired Bicolours |
| 6.Lack of two scrotal testicales in
un-neutered male, adult or kittens |
| 7.Eyes very deep set or haw covering
more than corner of eye |
| 8. Any defect as listed in the
preface to the GCCF booklet |
Colour Descriptions:
The margin between the coloured and the white areas should be distinct,
preferably with no scattered white hairs in coloured areas or scattered
coloured hairs in white areas.
In all colours the white areas should be pure white with no hint of
discolouration.
Coloured areas in shorthaired Bicolours should be sound to the roots.
Longhaired Bicolours may show slight paling of coloured areas towards the
roots and the pattern may be more diffuse.
The coloured areas are as follows:
SELF & WHITE:
Black & White: Coloured areas jet black in adults with no rusty tinge.
Nose Leather & Eye Rims: Black and/or pink.
Paw Pads: Black or brown and/or pink.
Blue & White: Coloured areas light to medium blue. Free from silvery
tipping.
Nose Leather & Eye Rims: Blue and/or pink.
Paw Pads: Blue in adults, pinkish blue allowable in kittens, and/or pink.
Chocolate & White: Coloured areas rich warm chestnut brown. Not dark or
cold toned.
Nose Leather & Eye Rims: Brown and/or pink. Paw Pads: Brown or
pinkish-brown and/or pink.
Lilac & White: Coloured areas frosty grey with a distinct pinkish tone,
giving an overall appearance of lilac. Colour too blue or too fawn is a
fault.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pinkish lilac and/or pink.
Red & White: Coloured areas rich warm red, level in colour. Tabby
markings may be evident, especially in kittens, and should not penalise an
otherwise good cat.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pink. "Freckles" may appear
on nose, lips, eye rims, ears & pads. Slight freckling in a mature cat
should not be penalised.
Cream & White: Coloured areas cool toned cream, level in colour. Tabby
markings may be evident, especially in kittens, and should not penalise an
otherwise good cat.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pink. "Freckles" may appear
on nose, lips, eye rims, ears & pads. Slight freckling in a mature cat
should not be penalised.
Apricot & White: Coloured areas apricot, hot in tone with a slightly
darker dusting that develops and becomes more noticeable with maturity.
Mature cats may show a pewter sheen on the ghost tabby markings.Tabby
markings may be evident, especially in kittens, and should not penalise an
otherwise good cat.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pink. "Freckles" may appear
on nose, lips, eye rims, ears & pads. Slight freckling in a mature cat
should not be penalised.
Cinnamon & White: Coloured areas warm cinnamon brown.
Nose Leather & Eye Rims: Cinnamon brown and/or pink.
Paw pads: Pink to cinnamon brown and/or pink.
Caramel & White: Coloured areas dark brownish grey (for blue based) or a
warmer brownish grey (for lilac/fawn based), displaying a metallic sheen
which may be less evident in kittens.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Brownish grey and/or pink.
Fawn & White: Coloured areas warm rosy mushroom, the pinker the better,
colour too blue or cold is a fault.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pinkish fawn and/or pink.
TORTIE & WHITE:
In coloured areas the base colour should be free from tabby markings. This
base colour is patched and/or mingled at random with shades of
red/cream/apricot which may show tabby markings. The higher the grade of
white marking, the more the base colour and the red/cream/apricot form
distinct patches.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Self & White
colour.
Black Tortie & White: Coloured areas jet black with shades of dark
and/or light red.
Blue Tortie & White: Coloured areas light to medium blue with shades of
cream and/or pale cream.
Chocolate Tortie & White: Coloured areas rich warm chestnut brown with
shades of dark and/or light red.
Lilac Tortie & White: Coloured areas frosty grey with a distinct pinkish
tone with shades of cream and/or pale cream.
Cinnamon Tortie & White: Coloured areas warm cinnamon brown with shades
of dark and/or light red.
Caramel Tortie & White: Coloured areas dark brownish grey (for blue
based) or a warmer brownish grey (for lilac/fawn based) with shades of
apricot, showing a metallic sheen.
Fawn Tortie & White: Coloured areas warm rosy mushroom with shades of
rich and/or paler cream.
SMOKE & WHITE:
Any of the above Self & White and Tortie & White colours, with a
near-white undercoat which should be approximately one third to two thirds
of the total hair length in adults. The degree of contrast on the head and
face should match the body as closely as possible and too much silver,
giving the appearance of clear tabby markings, is undesirable. Some faint
ghost tabby markings may be evident on the body, especially in kittens, but
distinct tabby markings in adults are undesirable.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Self & White
or Tortie & White colour.
TABBY & WHITE:
In coloured areas the tabby pattern, which may be Spotted, Classic, Mackerel
or Ticked, is formed by markings of the solid pattern colour, which may be
any of the above self and tortie colours, on a background of agouti hairs.
The pattern colour in Standard Tabbies & White should be that of the
equivalent coloured Self & White or Tortie & White. The silver gene
often modifies the colour of the markings resulting in a colder or darker
shade than in the standard equivalent and this should not be penalised. The
pattern colour in Spotted, Classic and Mackerel Tabbies & White should
match on head, body, legs and tail. In Ticked Tabbies & White the
pattern colour on head, legs and tail should match the ticking colour on the
body.
In Standard Tabbies & White the markings should be dense to the roots
and in Silver Tabbies & White they should extend well down the hair. The
markings should show good contrast with the ground colour but in dilute
colours the contrast between the markings and the ground colour is less than
that required in non-dilute colours. In Tortie Tabbies & White the base
colour is patched and/or mingled at random with shades of red/cream/apricot.
The higher the grade of white marking, the more the base coloured tabby
areas and the red/cream/apricot tabby areas form distinct patches. In Silver
Tabbies & White tarnishing, i.e. discolouration of the silver ground
colour, is undesirable.
Nose Leather & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Self & White or Tortie
& White colour or pink rimmed with the Self or Tortie colour and/or
pink.
Eye Rims: As in the equivalent Self & White or Tortie & White
colour.
Head markings in coloured areas: On the forehead there should be a letter
"M" extending to form a beetle shaped "scarab" marking
running back between the ears. There should be unbroken lines running from
the outer corners of the eyes and there should be pencillings on the cheeks.
Thumb prints on the ears are desirable. In Ticked Tabbies the head markings
may be less distinct. The Oriental Tabby has a tendency to white in the
immediate area of the lips and lower jaw. It is a serious fault if this
extends to the throat and/or muzzle in Standard Tabbies but silvery white
colour on the throat and/or muzzle in Silver Tabbies is not a fault.
Leg markings in coloured areas: The legs should be barred in Classic,
Mackerel and Ticked Tabbies, barred and/or spotted in Spotted Tabbies. The
barring should extend from the body marking to the toes, except in Ticked
Tabbies where it may be reduced, and the pattern colour should extend well
up the back of the hind legs.
Tail markings in coloured areas: The tail should be ringed, the rings being
wider in Classic Tabbies and less distinct in Ticked Tabbies. There should
be a solid tip of the pattern colour except in Red, Cream & Apricot
tabbies where the tip may be pale. In Tortie Tabbies the tip may be
mottled.In shorthaired Bicolours the rings should be clearly visible on the
top of the tail as well as on the underside.
Body markings in coloured areas:
Spotted pattern: On the neck and upper chest there should be broken or
unbroken necklaces, the more the better. Lines running from the top of the
head down the back of the neck should break into spots on the shoulders and
along the spine. Kittens may show a rather solid spine line but evidence of
breaking into spots is desirable. A solid spine line in adult cats is a
serious fault. The spots may vary in size but should be round and evenly
distributed. Spots should not run together into a broken Mackerel striped
pattern in any part of the coat.
Classic pattern: On the neck and upper chest there should be unbroken
necklaces, the more the better. One of the lines running from the top of the
head down the back of the neck should extend to the shoulder markings which
should be shaped like a butterfly when viewed from above; both upper and
lower wings should be clearly defined in outline with dots inside this
outline. On the back there should be a line running down the spine from the
butterfly to the tail and there should be a stripe on each side of this,
running parallel to it. These three stripes should be separated from each
other by stripes of the ground colour. On each flank there should be a large
solid oyster or blotch, which should be surrounded by one or more unbroken
rings. The ground colour and markings should be evenly balanced except on
the belly which should be predominantly lighter with spotted markings. The
markings on each side should match as closely as possible.
Mackerel pattern: On the neck and upper chest there should be unbroken
necklaces, the more the better. One of the lines running from the top of the
head down the back of the neck should extend as a narrow unbroken line to
the base of the tail. On either side of this should be a broken spine line
from which the narrow lines which form the Mackerel Pattern run vertically
down the body; these lines should be as narrow and numerous as possible.
Ground colour and markings should be evenly balanced.
Ticked pattern: On the neck and upper chest there should be at least one
distinct necklace, broken or unbroken. The body should be free from spots,
stripes or blotches, except for darker dorsal shading. The lighter belly may
show tabby markings. The coat should be evenly ticked with the pattern
colour, with double, or preferably treble, ticking. i.e. two or three bands
of each colour on each hair.
Coat colour descriptions for coloured areas in all tabby patterns:
Brown Tabby & White: Markings jet black. Ground warm coppery brown.
Blue Tabby & White: Markings light to medium blue. Ground cool beige.
Chocolate Tabby & White: Markings rich warm chestnut brown. Ground warm
bronze.
Lilac Tabby & White: Markings frosty grey with a distinct pinkish tone.
Ground beige.
Red Tabby & White: Markings rich warm red. Ground paler bright red.
Tortie Tabby & White: Markings jet black with red. Ground warm coppery
brown with pale red.
Cream Tabby & White: Markings cool toned cream. Ground paler cream.
Apricot Tabby & White: Markings hot cream with a soft metallic sheen.
Ground pale apricot.
Blue Tortie Tabby & White: Markings light to medium blue with cream.
Ground cool beige with pale cream.
Chocolate Tortie Tabby & White: Markings rich warm chestnut brown with
red. Ground warm bronze with pale red.
Lilac Tortie Tabby & White: Markings frosty grey with a distinct pinkish
tone with cream. Ground beige with pale cream.
Cinnamon Tabby & White: Markings warm cinnamon brown. Ground warm light
cinnamon.
Cinnamon Tortie Tabby & White: Markings warm cinnamon brown with red.
Ground warm light cinnamon with pale red.
Caramel Tabby & White: Markings brownish grey with a metallic sheen.
Ground beige.
Caramel Tortie Tabby & White: Markings brownish grey with a metallic
sheen with apricot. Ground beige with pale apricot.
Fawn Tabby & White: Markings warm rosy mushroom. Ground warm pale
mushroom.
Fawn Tortie Tabby & White: Markings warm rosy mushroom with rich cream.
Ground warm pale mushroom with pale cream.
Black Silver Tabby & White: Markings black. Ground silver.
Blue Silver Tabby & White: Markings blue. Ground pale blue-silver.
Chocolate Silver Tabby & White: Markings chocolate. Ground pale
chocolate-silver.
Lilac Silver Tabby & White: Markings lilac. Ground pale lilac- silver.
Red Silver Tabby & White: Markings red. Ground pale red-silver.
Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings black with red. Ground silver with
pale red-silver.
Cream Silver Tabby & White: Markings cream. Ground pale cream-silver.
Apricot Silver Tabby & White: Markings hot cream with a soft metallic
sheen. Ground pale apricot-silver.
Blue Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings blue with cream. Ground pale
blue-silver with pale cream-silver.
Chocolate Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings chocolate with red.
Ground pale chocolate-silver with pale red-silver.
Lilac Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings lilac with cream. Ground
pale lilac- silver with pale cream-silver.
Cinnamon Silver Tabby & White: Markings cinnamon. Ground pale
cinnamon-silver.
Cinnamon Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings cinnamon with red. Ground
pale cinnamon-silver with pale red-silver.
Caramel Silver Tabby & White: Markings brownish grey with a metallic
sheen. Ground pale beige-silver.
Caramel Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings brownish grey with a
metallic sheen with apricot. Ground pale beige-silver with pale
apricot-silver.
Fawn Silver Tabby & White: Markings mushroom. Ground pale
mushroom-silver.
Fawn Tortie Silver Tabby & White: Markings mushroom with cream. Ground
pale mushroom-silver with pale cream-silver.
SHADED & WHITE:
An agouti cat in which the darker shading colour is restricted to the
surface of the coat with a clear under colour, extending at least two-thirds
up the hair shaft on the sides in adults. Heavier shading may or may not be
apparent on the back. The tabby pattern, which may be Ticked, Spotted,
Mackerel or Classic, may show clearly on the surface of the coat in kittens
but should become less distinct as the lighter under-colour extends up the
hair shaft with maturity. Classic based Shadeds & White may appear
darker because the pattern area is greater. The head, legs and tail may show
tabby markings of varying clarity depending on the degree of shading.
In coloured areas the coat may be shaded or tipped with any of the above
Self or Tortie colours. The shading should be the same colour as the pattern
area of the equivalent colour of Tabby & White; in Silver colours the
shading may be reduced in intensity. The under-colour should be free from
any markings, slightly paler than the ground colour in the equivalent colour
of Tabby & White since there should be no agouti banding here.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Tabby &
White colour.
SELF POINT & WHITE:
Seal Point & White: Points: Coloured areas seal brown, clearly defined.
Body: Coloured areas cream. Shading, if any, to tone with points. In kittens
the body colour may be muddy fawn. A cold white body colour is incorrect in
kittens and adults.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Seal brown and/or pink.
Blue Point & White: Points: Coloured areas light blue; all points to be
the same tone.
Body: Coloured areas glacial white. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Blue and/or pink.
Chocolate Point & White:Points: Coloured areas warm milk chocolate:
mask, ears and tail to be the same tone. Legs paler than other points should
not be too heavily penalised.
Body: Coloured areas ivory. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather & Eye Rims: Chocolate and/or pink. Paw Pads: Chocolate or
pinkish chocolate and/or pink.
Lilac Point & White: Points: Coloured areas pinkish grey. Blue,
chocolate or fawn toned is incorrect.
Body: Coloured areas magnolia. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pinkish grey and/or pink.
Red Point & White: Points: Coloured areas: Mask, ears and tail rich
bright reddish gold. The legs and feet will be paler in colour, but the
bright colour should show at the rear of the hind legs below the hock.
Barring and striping on mask, legs and tail is permissible. Freckles' may
occur on nose, paw pads, lips, eyelids and ears. Slight freckling in a
mature cat should not be penalised.
Body: Coloured areas warm white. Shading, if any, to tone with points. Such
shading may be uneven, and a Red Point should be penalised for shading no
more nor less severely than a Seal Point.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pink.
Cream Point & White: Points: Coloured areas: Mask, ears and tail cool
toned cream with a powdery look, A dark toned cream is permissible, but a
hot cream is incorrect. The legs and feet will be slightly paler in colour,
but definite colour should show at the rear of the hind legs below the hock.
Barring and striping on mask, legs and tail is permissible. Freckles' may
occur on nose, paw pads, lips, eyelids and ears. Slight freckling in a
mature cat should not be penalised.
Body: Coloured areas creamy white. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Such shading may be uneven, and a Cream Point should be penalised for
shading no more nor less severely than a Blue Point. Nose Leather, Eye Rims
& Paw Pads: Pink.
Apricot Point & White: Points: Coloured areas: Mask, ears and tail
apricot, hot in tone with a slightly darker dusting that develops and
becomes more noticeable with maturity. The legs and feet will be slightly
paler in colour but definite colour should show at the rear of the hind legs
below the hock. Barring and striping on mask, legs and tail is permissible.
Mature cats may show a pewter sheen on the ghost tabby markings,
particularly on the head, but also under the feet. 'Freckles' may occur on
nose, paw pads, lips, eyelids and ears. Slight freckling in a mature cat
should not be penalised.
Body: Coloured areas warm creamy white. Shading, if any, to tone with
points. Such shading may be uneven and an Apricot Point should be penalised
for shading no more nor less severely than a Blue Point.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pink. Cinnamon Point & White:
Points: Coloured areas warm cinnamon brown. The legs may be slightly paler
than the other points.
Body: Coloured areas ivory. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather & Eye Rims: Cinnamon brown and/or pink. Paw Pads: Pink to
cinnamon brown and/or pink.
Caramel Point & White: Points: Coloured areas dark brownish blue (in
blue based) or brownish grey (in lilac/fawn based), matching on all points
although the legs may be slightly paler than the other points.
Body: Coloured areas off-white. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pinkish grey and/or pink.
Fawn Point & White: Points: Coloured areas warm pale rosy mushroom. The
legs may be slightly paler than the other points.
Body: Coloured areas warm magnolia. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: Pinkish fawn and/or pink.
TORTIE POINT & WHITE:
Points: In coloured areas the base colour is patched and/or mingled at
random with varying shades of red, cream or apricot; any large areas of red,
cream or apricot may show some striping. Points need not be evenly broken.
The higher the grade of white marking, the more the base colour and the
red/cream/apricot form distinct patches.
Body: Coloured areas as in the equivalent Self Point & White colours.
Any shading of the body colour will show patching or mingling and a Tortie
Point & White should be penalised for shading no more nor less severely
than the equivalent Self Point & White colour.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Self Point &
White colour.
Seal Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas seal brown with shades
of red.
Blue Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas light blue with shades
of cool-toned cream.
Chocolate Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas milk chocolate
with shades of red.
Lilac Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas pinkish grey with
shades of cool-toned cream.
Cinnamon Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas warm cinnamon
brown with shades of red.
Caramel Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas dark brownish blue
(in blue based) or brownish grey (in lilac/fawn based) with shades of
apricot.
Fawn Tortie Point & White: Points: Coloured areas warm pale rosy
mushroom with shades of cream.
SMOKE POINT & WHITE:
Points: Coloured areas any of the above Self Point & White and Tortie
Point & White colours, with a near-white undercoat. The effect will be
to produce a paler and muted version of the Self or Tortie Point & White
colour, although this will be less obvious in dilute colours. In Red, Cream
& Apricot Smoke Points & White the ears may have a faintly mottled
appearance. The silver gene often modifies the coat colour resulting in a
colder or darker shade than in the standard equivalent and this should not
be penalised.
Body: Coloured areas a paler silvery version of the equivalent Self Point
& White or Tortie Point & White colour, with a nearwhite undercoat
which should be approximately one third to two thirds of the total hair
length in adults. Shading, if any, to tone with points.
Nose Leather, Eye Rims & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Self Point &
White or Tortie Point & White colour.
TABBY POINT & WHITE, SILVER TABBY POINT &
WHITE
Points: In coloured areas the markings colour in Standard Tabby Points &
White should be that of the equivalent coloured Self Point & White or
Tortie Point & White. In Silver Tabby Points & White the silver gene
often modifies the colour of the markings resulting in a colder or darker
shade than in the standard equivalent and this should not be penalised. The
mask, legs and tail should all show clear tabby markings which should be the
same colour on all points, although leg markings may be slightly paler in
tone. Paler markings are acceptable in kittens. In Tortie Tabby Points &
White the base colour is patched and/or mingled at random with shades of
red/cream/apricot. The higher the grade of white marking, the more the base
coloured tabby areas and the red/cream/apricot tabby areas form distinct
patches. In Silver Tabby Points & White tarnishing, i.e. discolouration
of the silver ground colour, is undesirable. In Tabby Points & White
from Shaded or Shaded & White breeding the tabby markings will be less
distinct but should still be evident.
Mask: In coloured areas stripes, especially around the eye and nose, with an
'M' marking on the forehead, stripes on the cheeks and darkly spotted
whisker pads. The stripes should not extend over the top of the head to form
a 'hood'.
Ears: In coloured areas the edges of the ears should be the same colour as
the markings on the mask with a central patch of paler colour resembling a
thumb print. These thumb prints may be less apparent in dilute colours. In
Tortie Tabby Points the ears may be mottled and the thumb prints may not be
visible. In Red, Cream & Apricot Silver Tabby Points & White the
ears may have a faintly mottled appearance.
Legs: In coloured areas varied-sized, broken stripes. Solid markings on the
back of hind legs. The leg markings may be slightly paler in tone than the
other points, especially in Red, Cream and Apricot Tabby Points & White.
Tail: In coloured areas varied-sized rings, possibly broken. The rings
should extend for the entire length of the tail, ending in a solid tip
except in Red, Cream and Apricot Tabby Points where the tip may be pale. In
Tortie Tabby Points the tip may be mottled.In shorthaired Bicolours the
rings should be clearly visible on the top of the tail as well as on the
underside.
Body: Coloured areas as in the equivalent Self Point & White, Tortie
Point & White or, in Silver Tabby Points, Smoke Point & White
colour. Shading, if any, to tone with points. Shading will show the
underlying tabby pattern which may be ticked, spotted, mackerel or classic.
A Tabby Point & White should be penalised for shading no more nor less
severely than the equivalent Self, Tortie or Smoke Point & White.
Nose Leather & Paw Pads: As in the equivalent Self Point & White or
Tortie Point & White colour, or pink outlined by that colour.
Eye Rims: As in the equivalent Self Point & White or Tortie Point &
White colour
BREED NUMBERS:
48 - Oriental Bicolour Shorthair. basic number for non-pointed colours =
green-eyed, + bl = blue-eyed, + od = odd-eyed
49 - Oriental Bicolour Longhair. as above using Series 2 letters (a: blue,
b: chocolate - y: fawn tortie) for full-coloured Self & White and Tortie
& White cats using Series 1 (38: spotted tabby, 40: pointed, 41: classic
tabby, 42: smoke, 43: shaded, 44: mackerel tabby, 45: ticked tabby) in
combination with the Series 2 letters for full-coloured patterned &
White cats and pointed & White cats
e.g. :
48h : Chocolate Tortie & White Oriental Bicolour Shorthair (green-eyed)
49 42k od :Cinnamon Smoke & White Oriental Bicolour Longhair, odd-eyed
48 45j bl : Lilac Tortie Ticked Tabby & White Oriental Bicolour
Shorthair, blue-eyed
49 40p : Caramel Tortie Point & White Oriental Bicolour Longhair
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